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    這篇文主要節錄於International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015, 37, 2–30
這篇文獻做大略上的翻譯，我想除了關注各別成分的防曬能力，對於過往這些成分造成
的問題可能要更為重要，畢竟 "先研究不傷身體，再講究效果" 嘛！


網頁好讀版: http://tinyurl.com/o2qu264

以下正文開始....





http://imgur.com/Z6L4yEe

二苯甲醯甲烷類 Dibenzoylmethane derivatives

    在德國，Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM,Avobenzone)是最常見的UVA
filter，他存在於大部分的化妝品和80%的防曬產品中。BMDBM取代了在1993年停產的高致
敏性的4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethae (I-DBM)，但可惜的是BMDBM本身也有致敏性。
[2,3]

http://imgur.com/m4qeGU0

    當BMDBM和ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) 合用時，很容易造成光裂解
(photodegradation)，裂解的產物可能會引起過敏[4]，不過可以藉由配方的調整，例如
加入octocrylene (OCR)或封裝技術(encapsulation)來降低光裂解的發生。[5-8]

二苯基甲酮類 Benzophenone derivates

    Benzophenone-3 (BP-3)和 benzophenone-4 (BP-4)是歐盟認可的防曬成分，具優異
的光穩定性和廣譜性，吸收範圍涵蓋UVA和UVB。[9, 10]因此，他們不但被加在防曬產品

[11-13]。此外，BP-3和BP-4也有過敏案例發生[14-17]，所以在德國已經不太用這2個成
份了。

對氨基苯甲酸類 p-Aminobenzoate derivates

    4-aminobenzonic acid (PABA)是 UVB filter，是最早商業化和受歡迎的防曬成分
[18]，但由於他的光敏性[19,20]，在2008年時已被歐盟禁用。另一衍生物 ethylhexyl
p-aminobenzonic acid (OD-PABA) 也慢慢被其他成分取代了。

水楊酸類 Salicylate derivates

    此類代表性成分是 ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS)和 homosalate，是UVB filter。
水楊酸類通常都是弱 UVB吸收劑，主要是加在產品裡頭幫助其他的UVB filter。由於他們
不溶於水，所以有非常好的防水效果。他們通常沒什麼光敏性和致敏性[21,22]，也不會
影響我們的內分泌[23, 24]，EHS只有一點點進入皮膚的能力[25]，加上他的光穩定性，
所以很多產品都會加。

    另一衍生物triethanolamine salicylate是水溶性的UV吸收劑，時常加在髮用產品裡
頭。

樟腦類 Camphor derivates

    3-benzylidene (3-BC)和 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC)曾經是非常受歡迎

Women in Europe for a Common Future (WECF)和German Friends of the Earth (BUND)
，迫使3-BC和4-MBC幾乎在德國全面停用了。

    Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid (TDSA, Mexoryl SX)是UVA filter


肉桂酸類 Cinnamate derivates

    Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC, octinoxate)是非常受歡迎的UV filter，他

，所以在德國，使用量減少得非常多，從1994年的65%防曬產品[27]下降到最近的15%，不
過保養品仍然使用非常頻繁。


見的光敏性成分[41-44]。

三嗪類 Triazones

    最近，UV filter的開發都會參考500分子量理論[45](分子量超過500的分子，越大越
不易進入皮膚)，讓防曬成分更有效也更安全。UVB filter ethylhexyl triazone (EHT)
和diethylhexyl butamido triazone (DEBT, isotrizinol, Uvasorb HEB)，還有廣譜吸
收的UV filter bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT,
bemotrizinol, Tinosorb S)都因為他們連接多個發色團(chromophoric groups)而使分子
量超過500。這些成分展現出高吸收係數，高效防護和高穩定性的功能[46, 47-49]，所以
出現在很多的防曬產品或保養品當中，尤其是Tinosorb S，他還能改善其他成分在產品裡
頭的穩定性[47]。最近，tris-biphenyl triazine (Tinosorb A2B)被納入歐盟化妝品法
規認可的防曬成分清單[50]，這是第一個粒子大小低於100nm被歐盟承認的防曬成分，他


苯並三唑類 Benzotriazoles

    依據500分子量理論而開發的UV filter還有廣譜性的drometrizole trisiloxane
(DTS, Mexoryl XL)和methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol(MBBT,
Bisoctrizole, Tinosorb M)。因此，他們發生經皮吸收和光過敏反應的可能性都較少
[51,52]。Mexoryl XL是第一個提供UVB和UVA範圍保護的光穩定防曬成分，當和Mexoryl
SX合用時，還能發揮1加1大於2的防護加乘效果[53]。Tinosorb M 製成化學性微細粒子



以下是參考資料，可以直接End....
參考資料：

圖來源:International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015, 37, 2–30

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56. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015, 37, 2–30

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